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Hopefully I will finish that job tomorrow. Not sure the captions are correct for each photo, but you should see the drift.
I intend to add my own touch to the N/S interior finish, which I will post photos of when my varnished wood strip is dry an fitted and the job completed. I have now progressed to the drivers side and removed the reas window and water channel, and carefully untacked the headlining as per photo. I have pinned this back and investigated the wood that runs back over the door and rear window. Although not as badly rotted as on the N/S, which fell out in pieces it is pretty much gone. I have carefully cut this out now and today plan to make up a new piece to fit into the gap. Fortunately, as on the passenger side the wood going down to form the mudguard support is still good. This is still original so proves that if kept dry wood can last as long as steel. We’ll nearly. I haven’t yet investigated the front A post but am certain that from the door lock down it is rotten. No doubt rain and damp have penetrator pa’s the windscreen and water has run down the pillar and been blown along the top of the door causing the rot I have found
As you can see I haven’t got the photo description tags attached to the relevant photos.1st photo shows headlining untacked exposing rotten wood. 2nd shows joint with A post secured with a plate which we removed and replaced 30 years ago. Original from the factory. .3rd photo showing the extent of rot going backwards over the door and window. The 4th photo shows the original joint to the frame coming up from the mudguard, joining together with the roof support timber over the rear window. Fortunately this wood is still good . The final photo shows the timber removed. I have some work to do removing the screws that joined the roof cross members to the roof support timber. I could cut them off but think I may be able to unscrew the little curved joining pieces in order to get the old screws out.. the whole frame was obviously assembled before the Aluminium skin was put on. I can either make up brackets or fit screws up through the new wood. The aim is not to disturb the aluminium skin and paint as all is good in that department.
Really useful pictures, if only I’d been able to see all this before I started mine. I’d love to pay you a quick visit sometime and see how it all fits together though, in particular how the aluminium skin wraps around the wood and is finished / seals etc.
Ben. I intend to work on the car all weekend. Give me a ring if you decide to come. Don’t forget. I have a teering wheel for you.
Good morning all. I have spent all of the weeken creating a new piece of wood to replace the rotten timber that was removed. Previous experience warned me that this is not straightforward. So it proved this time again. I started with a suitably sized piece of wood deep and wide enough th enable me to carve out the shape I require. Needless to say it wasn’t too long before I realised I had removed too much wood from some places. Fortunately modern glue means this can be remedied by gluing on more suitably sized timber and planing back more carefully. This was done three times and I now have the perfectly fitting piece of wood for the job. Will I use this or use it to make another piece without the glued additions? I see no reason not to use it but may have another go to do the job with just one piece of wood. As promised I have finished fitting the trim and additional sealing to the N/S door. My P1 has always had a gap between the bottom of thbe door and the bodywork. This has always been sealed by the door trim. Over many years of use this has proved inadequate, therefore I have glued an extra sealing strip along the body. Now I have fitted the normal trim along the foor and added a strip of timber to hold it in place and firm against the door bottom. I am posting photos hopefully with the descriptive captions in the right place. If they aren’t I will have created another unintentional puzzle for you all to solve. Here we go.
V
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