@charles-gough
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Hello Colin.
You can get king pin sets from here:- Stainless Steel King Pin Kit (Royal King Pin Kit) 78-3111-R, 78-3111 – Belcher Engineering (belchers.uk).
These are the stainless steel types and they do come at a cost, however there are some on ebay that are the standard steel types etc. Give Belcher Engineering a call they should be able to help you out as they get parts from the USA, let us know how you get on.
Kind regards, Charles Gough
Hello Colin
Thank’s for the info. There were a few messages on our social chat about your car and the only snippet that came to light was some early cars were fitted with more grill bars and this led to some overheating . Further to this there was also a mention of a flap being fitted to allow more air inn, hmm interesting. Well, this is an interesting topic, please let us know what you find and post a picture if you can. We will follow this through with you and assist you as best we can. Keep us posted Colin and well done, Kind regards
Charles
Hello Colin
That’s interesting, I have seen modified ones that have had the section opened up but not a bolted up panel. I could be wrong about this so I have ask for help via our club Whats App group to see if anyone has some more knowledge about this. Could you let me know the year of the car and its reg as we can check it out for you
Kind regards, Charles
Hello Colin
This is the joint being leaded in for a smooth finish or you could use filler. I personally would lead the joint as it is structural and would not crack. Hope this is some help to you , Kind regards Charles
Hello Colin
The first picture is of a joggled edge set into the nose cone for the repair panel to sit on. Your panel will be different to
this but the idea is the same. The other pictures show my repair piece in place and spot welded. Yours would be done the same but with your the new panel.Hello Colin
The nose cone on the M’s is made of steel. If yours has been cut out as in the picture above and you want to fill it back in so it is more like an original, there is really only one way to approach it to make it work. A piece of sheet steel is needed about 1 mm thick to cover the opening that you are trying to fill inn. You should allow at least 1 inch beyond the opening for trimming . The dimensions you need will come from the nose cone opening itself .
The nose cone opening in the area that’s under the grill will have to have its edge joggled , this will create a stepped lower edge for your new panel to sit on. The new panel can then be trimmed to match the lower edge and spot welded in place.
When all looks correct the outer joggled edge seam can be filled in with lead or filler to make a smooth appearance on the outside. This is not a complicated task but it does require some special tools to achieve it. I have attached some pictures to give you an Idea of what to do. My nose cone was quite bad with rotted out sections but the principal is the same, its just adapting it to your needs.
I think you will need to get some help in doing this work but the end result will be worth while. Let me know how you get on and if you need any other guidance.
Kind regard, CharlesHere is the Finished hole that the torque rod will attach through, the other end of the torque rod will fix to the chassis. This will stop the engine and gearbox from moving forward and backwards but it will allow twisting via engine torque
Hi All, April 2012 with the French Flathead in place it was time to drill the bell housing. This is a job that must be done as it helps to stop clutch judder when releasing the clutch. The French Flathead version that I have did not have these drillings but the casting bosses were there. A hole was drilled through the casting as a guild for the cutter . A homemade counter bore cutter was then made from some silver steel bar. Teeth were then cut onto the end and hardend. The cutter was then place in a cordless drill to drill the counter bore.
Hello Colin.
Here is a picture of the standard nose cone looking to the inside. There is a reinforcing frame to hold the contour of the nose cone but no cowling inside. All M types are like this weather it is the long waterfall grill type or the lower grill version.
Please get in touch if you need any more information so we can help you out , kind regards
Hello Colin,
I have picked up on your message concerning the nose cone and a cowling that goes under the grill ? Could you elaborate a bit more for me please. The reason for asking, there is no cowling as such under the radiator grill. There are two types of radiator grill fitted to the M types. One is the waterfall grill that sweeps up over the nose cone, the second is the lower grill type that just covers the opening in the nose cone.At the back of the radiator grill there should be a small half moon shelf , this is riveted to the radiator grill bars to help hold them in place. This small shelf is fitted to both types of grill, is it this that you are referring to.
Hello Samuel, A 7Ib cap will be ok, use a 50/50 mix of Blue antifreeze and see how you go. By the way, our flathead engines do tend to run a little hotter than most because of its design. Your temperature gauge takes its reading from the centre of the cylinder head (where the top hose connects). I mention this because this area is also shared by two common exhaust ports just below the head. As a result, the temperature in this area can get quite high and your gauge will read accordingly. Bear this in mind when looking at the temperature gauge. Modern cars take there temperature readings from the radiator which is more a average temperature rather than a hot spot like ours. Please keep in touch and let us know how you get on with things.
Kind regards, Charles Gough
Hello Samuel, The standard cap that should be on your M should be a 4Ib cap. Having said that I have a 7Ib cap on my M and seems fine. As for the water loss this requires a little explanation. If you have just a radiator only and it is filled to the brim, when the engine gets hot the water will expand and be passed out via the cap overflow this is normal. The cooling system has about 41/2 gallons in it and to loose a point of water due to expansion is about right. When the engine cools down that lost water is then replaced with air back via the cap. The next time you run the engine up to temperature air will be expelled and no water. This was how the original cooling system worked. Today we have a more modern approach to our cooling systems that include expansion tanks and catch tanks. The catch tank, collects the lost water via the cap overflow and stores it. This is then siphoned back into the radiator when it cools down via the cap so the radiator always remains full. Hope this is some help to you. If there is anything that you are not sure about please ask, we are here to help.
Kind regards Charles Gough
Hello Ben, It looks like 3/8 BSP both sides. I put the vernier on it to check and it came out at 0.65″ ish and the book for 3/8 BSP is 0.656. My gauge is a smiths unit so it should be the same but check anyway. As for the quarter light rubbers I think they were a one piece L section part that was made to fit the quarter light opening. I will check and look up some old pictures. Window rubbers for our cars are virtually non existent , I am fast approaching needing a complete set but no one does our sizes. I will check on what the quarter light should be, kind regards, Charles
