Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 20 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #6357
    Ben Stevens
    Keymaster

    Any top tips on adding towing points to my P1?  e.g. where to add, and what kind of strength I’d need.

    Pictures would be even better if anyone has any.  Seems like a sensible thing for me to think about earlier rather than later

    #6387
    Tim Wilson
    Participant

    A very good idea to address this while the rebuild is under way, Ben. I suffered a dismal tale of woe a few years ago after my TR was immobilised in Belgium by contaminant in the fuel tank. Cutting a long story short, my mate and l had stayed with my car for its repatriation by the AA. We thought, notwithstanding the indignity of the breakdown, that we had nothing further to worry about, once we were dropped off at the Calais ferry terminal, late at night, last ferry of the day, front of queue. We were then refused entry on board, because the car didn’t have a towing eye. We begged and pleaded appealed and beseeched; but no joy. An edict from the Calais Chamber of Commerce, apparently; no towing bracket, no shipment! A TVR equipe (it had been Le Mans classique) offered to schlepp us on behind them, and they were told if they did that, they’d be barred from boarding, too. End of story – we didn’t get on the ferry. I had no foreknowledge of this reg, but if you plan to take your P-type abroad, fit that towing eye! Tim.

    #6389
    Ben Stevens
    Keymaster

    the question though is… where and how to fit it.  I sincerely hope I’ll never need it, but from listening to everyone on the social calls i’m not sure there’s any members out there who have never needed one!

    #8042
    Tim Wilson
    Participant

    Sorry for the diversionary anecdote, Ben. My Special is reputed to have a P-type chassis (coil springs at the front), and l’ve just been for a grovel underneath the car. Although mine (cycle mudguards) is a lot more open at the front than yours will be, the same route might nevertheless apply: l think welding or bolting a towing bracket + eye onto the underneath of the chassis longeron at the front  – either n/s or o/s will probably do – might work. The extension for the eye might have to dog-leg between the axle bump stop and the cage (ie. the bracket around the swing front axle which prevents that side of the Ballamy axle from dropping too far into positive camber), but so long as it is mounted well outboard, it shouldn’t end up being nipped by a rebounding axle. It’s proving the dickens of a thing to photo, but when l get the car out tomorrow, l’ll get a snap of the layout from the front end.  Tim.

    #6414
    Ben Stevens
    Keymaster

    Not a problem, I love diversionary anecdotes!

    Thanks for the second post though, I’d love to see pictures.  Seems like it would be better to bridge the two chassis longerons and pull from the middle rather than one corner though?

    I’ve previously put a rope through the starter handle hole (in the absence of the tube that’s supposed to be in there) so wondering about above / below that…

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by Ben Stevens.
    #6416

    Ben. I havefixed my towing point around the bumper bracket close to the chassis. When i fit the towing straps i nought from Demon Tweeks i will unbolt the bracket, and fix them properly against the chassi, then the bumper brackets.

    #8043
    Tim Wilson
    Participant

    Hi, both: l think Dave will have the best suggestion because he has the P1 and the datum points will be more similar to your car, Ben, than to mine. Personally l don’t think that using a pulling point that is to one side of the car front, will be detrimental to the structure of the vehicle; l seem to recall that many moderns have a towing eye to one side, and the one now on my TR is bolted to the o/s chassis longeron – and it works well (l am sad to be able to reveal!). I took some snaps from the front this am., Ben, so if you’d like to see them, let me know and perhaps we can work out a way of getting them to you on Email. Tim.

    #6419
    Ben Stevens
    Keymaster

    I’d love to see the pictures please Tim, you should be able to add them to a post response on here.

    I also like the idea of the towing straps Dave mentions, I’ll be keen to see those once fitted.  Seems like a brilliant idea.

    #6420
    Tim Wilson
    Participant

    Allard chassisOK, here we go, Ben – tho the more l look at these, the more naff they appear… 

    #8044
    Tim Wilson
    Participant

    Allard chassis

    #8046
    Tim Wilson
    Participant

    #8047
    Tim Wilson
    Participant

    #8048
    Tim Wilson
    Participant

    Hmm… no – it’s not much clearer than mud! Pic.1 has the n/s chassis leg coming from the top and Northeast side of the coil spring. Below the leg is the axle drop-restraining bracket; and slanting diagonally down to the right from the chassis leg, is the front chassis x-member, which is semi-hollow. Looking up into this x-member takes you to Pic.2, which shows (with the brown speckled bit) the hollow section of that x-member. to the v. left of pic is the front edge of the axle drop-restraining bracket, while to the right is the rear side of the n/s axle perch bolt.  Pic.3 doesn’t help much – it’s taken from the front of the car. A towing eye could be welded to the front underside of the near- or offside chassis leg, and dog-leg between the axle-drop bracket and the coil spring to the outboard of that. Apologies for confusing the situation even further! 😀

    #8051

    I will post photos of the towing straps i bought from Demon Tweeks earlier thi year to be fitted to my K1 soon

    #6467

    Towing straps

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 20 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.