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What an enjoyable event, the lunch and social gathering at the Falcon in Uppingham on Sunday. I thoroughly enjoyed myself and it was lovely to meet in the flesh, many whom l’d only ever seen on Zoom, or talked with on the phone. And the food was great. I could have stayed and chatted all night, but home duties called… Thanks to Peter and John for organising the day! Tim.
Russell, the door hinges are usually (!) attached to the B post by countersunk set screws with nuts to the rear. You may have to remove a trim panels by the rear seat to get access to the rear of the B post.
You do not however have to remove the doors to inspect their interiors
You should be able to get access to the internals of the door by removing the door cards which are secured to the doors by dome headed slotted screws in cup washers.
To remove the window winder handles and the internal door handle press the sprung bezels between the handles and the door cards bezels towards the cards and tap out the pins which will be revealed.Hi Russell good to see ORL 87 has gone to a good home. Along with Mike who has a lot of Allard knowlage tucked away in his head. Dave Loveys, the club Captain is also great when it comes to working on P’s. He is working on his door frames as we message. Have a look at his Forum postings about working on his P. I am sure he would also be happy to advise you. Ron
Welcome to the club Russell,
As a fellow P1 owner I’m sure we’ll have a lot to talk about, and Dave Loveys the club captain also has a P1. We’re both in the west country (Dave’s in Devizes and I’m in Ilminster) but both always happy to help where we can.
I’d be very interested in seeing some pictures as you take your doors apart. My P1 is er..rather a custom job, so I’m having to make a lot of it up as I go. The door inners are something I’d love to see.
Are you planning on attending the dinner dance in a few weeks time? It would be lovely to chat in person and show pictures of our cars!
Good Evening gents, and thank you for your input.
Today removed the rear window ready for resealing. All that was holding it in were the timber trims, no wonder it was letting in water. There’s clear silicone all along the roof gutters: I guess these are separate to the roof panel, and can let water in ? The windscreen and A-posts are generously siliconed too ! I’m assuming any folds/ joins in the metal of the A-posts is a potential source of water ingress ? Without silicone, the windscreen can normally be opened at the bottom, right ?
At first glance, the door apertures appear approx. 10mm wider than they should be to accomodate the door and gaps, along their bottoms. There’s no distorted metal work, so I assume the bases of the A and B posts have not somehow moved to be further apart from each other than they were 70 years ago: hopefully not, and just a bit of jiggling required to make the door fit better.
Unlikely to make it to Uppingham.
Russell. I will give you a full reply on Sunday. I have owned a P1 since 1973. It underwent a full restoration between then and 1996. I have used it since then and done over 60000 miles in it. I was forced to stop using it in 2015 because the A post had become rotten again. There are photos on our forum. As I say I will send you a full run down on Sunday. I am working tomorrow.
Rear window reinstalled, the only casualties appearing to be the rear ply seat back, and the ply boot floor.
Tried to expose the O/S A post but seems covered in metal. Perhaps the attached photo from the underside indicates what lies within?
Parts needed: 2 x wiper spindle grommets, 1 x door buffer ‘receptor’, filler neck to body seal/ grommet. Buy from The Complete Automobilist ?
Check out Dave’s Post on here and you’ll find a wealth of useful info and pictures of his A pillar replacement.
Russell
I don’t think you will be able to purchase the fuel filler grommet from the Complete Automobilist as they are ” special” to Allards. The ones from a pre-war Ford V8 look similar but they are not. The only place to obtain reproduction ones are from a bloke called Mike Knapman! The other items on your shopping list you should have no problem.In one of your earlier posts you said the roof rain gutters had been sealed with clear silicon. As you suspect the gutters are just strips of aluminium formed into a channel and tacked to the roof. The silcon is a way of preventing ingress of water which will rot the wood and the edges of the head lining.
Here’s a picture of Dave’s gutter removed from his car.
I have a link somewhere to a site that sells the buffers and receiving metal part for about 4 quid. I’ll dig it out.
Thank you Ben. Very useful. Thant link would be most welcome. Is there a way to direct message in this forum ?
Sadly no way to direct message no. I’ve tried, but it would require a bit more work to set up than I have spare at the moment.
The buffers are sold by woolies, here
https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/982/door-buffer
Are you going to the dinner dance next month? Or the Resto show (Dave will be there with his P1)
Thank you Ben.
The Woolies buffers are too small to match the existing one on my car.
The Complete Automobilist have the size I need.
Car show:no, Uppingham: trying to be available.
Russell, I have just come in from my workshop having been working 0on my P1 drivers side A post. Judging from the age of your car, unless the A posts have been replaced I would certainly want to check them out. Does the door lock catch work loose? On my car that was the first sign of trouble. If you unscrew one of the screws holding the catch in place will give you an idea of what is in there. Lower down on the A post there is a little locator bracket that should mate up with a half moon shaped piece of rubber. This helps locate and hold the door in position. If this is loose, or it may have been fibreglass into position, there is another clue to rotten wood. Gaining access to the A post is not as difficult as you might think, if youare brave. The aluminium shell is bent around the wooden frame and pinned into place. If you can’t see the pins, or the edge of the aluminium, the I suspect it has been filled with body filler to get the shape and finis required. I shall use filler on mine before painting. You can probe this with a sharp screwdriver or similar. If this is the case in order to access the A post, you will need to remove all of it. Once done the aluminium edge should now show. If the wood is rotten removing the pins is relatively easy. If the wood is good relax and go for a pint. Just remove a small section of filler to check. If you need to replace the wood, then uncover the whole door edge, remove any filler and get out as many of the pins as possible. Next, using a sharp screw driver or an old wood chisel, get the blade underneath the edge of the aluminium and gently pry it away fro the timber frame. I have done this twice now on my car, and the aluminium is still OK. I just pry it away little by litte working my way along the frame. Once I can get a pair of pliers underneath the edge I use pliers, but only bend the aluminium a bit each time. Hopefully your aluminium will be as forgiving as mine has been. A warm atmosphere would be an advantage. I have photos and descriptions of my work oon my P1 in this technical section of this forum. This afternoon I have just refitted and tacked into place my aluminium. If you wish you can ring me any time. 07850 655132. I will ring you back if I can’t take the call because I am driving. Some of the lorries Don’t have hands free facilities. Dave.
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