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Well it’s obviously breaking more on the left drum than the right.
1.Check equal adjustment on each shoe to drum.
2. Ensure that the leading edge of the linings are cut back about 2″ from the end of each of the shoes. The leading end is the end the piston pushes against not the pivot end.
3.Drums and linings are in good condition and clean.
4.Shoes mate well to the drums.
5.All 4 cylinders/pistons are functioning correctly.
It may also be that your shoes and drums need a bit if use to bed in and that the problem you are experiencing will correct itself in use.
I’ve no idea why all that text jumped around after I sent it. All were in line before I clicked submit ???
Tim, I’d not be too happy at the pulling to either side if it were me.As well as what Mel writes, do the linings look as though the contact areas between shoes and drums look the same on both sides of the car?I really can’t remember touching the front brakes on the car at all when I had it here, although I did fit reconned Phase 1 rear cylinders, which took forever to stop weeping.I wanted to chuck them down the road and fit the Phase 2 rear cylinders, but TE was happy with them as they were.It didn’t get much use in his ownership.Perhaps 100 miles max.As the fronts are not seized(?) on the right hand side (they DO seize, solid or partially, very easily!!) I’d be whipping all 4 of the pistons out for a clean up generally, and a regrease with the red stuff.This is almost an annual event for me on Phase 2 fronts.They really work very well indeed if all 4 are functioning as they should, especially so on a lightweight car such as yours.
As a matter of interest, it is quite possible to believe that your Phase 1 rear brakes are perfectly OK, especially if the handbrake is functioning well, when in fact, hydraulicly, they are seized solid (and may have been so for years) especially if you are not a regular MOT man.It is quite legal to request your tester on the now voluntary MOT test, to use a Tapley meter, instead of checking the car on the MOT brake rollers.The Tapley meter will show all is well with the overall hydraulic braking performance, since rear brakes offer much less assistance, working or otherwise, and the hand brake will easily lock the brakes on the mechanical circuit, leading to the false conclusion that the rears are OK.
Roger
First of all, apologies to you, Ben for suspected thread-hijack. Please feel free to do the same to my next query 😀
Now, thanks to Mel and Roger for your further advice. All good tips, which l will follow up in detail when l get the car back from engine work with Royal Kustoms – it’s due to go to Jim T in January.
Does converting from Ph.1 to ph. 2 rear cylinders involve much machining or other changes, Roger? Incidentally it came as a massive relief when l learned that it was you who had basically rebuilt the car and got it roadworthy for Tony E.
Lastly, since l got the Special from Tony, 5 yrs ago, l’ve driven it regularly (once a week on average, l’d guess), as l’ve been developing it, so possibly nothing has had the chance to seize or stick. My TR3 gets less exercise!
So l can report that the Special is a lot less hairy, and a lot more predictable, than it was when l first (Sept ’15) took it out on the A1 with no indicators, x-plies which were down to ca. 12lbs/sqinch (l’m the idiot for not checking) and steering gear with about 5″ of play at the steering wheel rim. David Cornwallis rebuilt the steering box and the response is now as good as r/pinion. 🙂
Cheers, Tim.
Ph 1 to Ph 2 rears:
Involves cutting new section out of backplates and fitting Ph 2 cylinders (with levers).
Then revising the cable arrangement from the handbrake lever. Mike Knapman has done this and may advise better, I haven’t – yet – but have all the bits to do it. So far I manage to keep my ph1s working reasonably well. The cable handbrake piston arrangement in the bisector does occasionally fail and needs resetting. There is also an upgrade designed by Dave Hooper (I think) that involves introducing a spring to assist the piston to return. I haven’t done that either but it looks quite straightforward and involves drilling a hole to house the spring inside the piston. MK has details I think. If not I will have them somewhere !
I’ve just noticed an error in the website details I included in my reply#5610. The company name is Power Track and the website address is: http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk I missed ot the t in the middle.
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